About Conrad Louw
Conrad Louw
Conrad Louw matriculated in Pretoria and obtained a bachelor’s in commerce at Stellenbosch University. He pursued a career in pharmaceuticals, where he ended up as General Manager for Southern Africa for a big multinational company. During this time, his interest in wine grew, which steered him to start studying at the Cape Wine Academy. He graduated as a Cape Wine Master in 2013.
A member of the
Commanderie de Bordeaux
Today he is still actively involved in the educational side at the CWA, teaching numerous subjects at various levels, including doing tutored tastings in wine and spirits for Diploma and Cape Wine Master students. He has been a wine judge at numerous competitions, including Vitis Vinifera and Michelangelo. Amongst others, he judges still wine, sparkling wine, gin, brandy, whisk(e)y, and other liqueurs. He is also a member of the Commanderie de Bordeaux.
His biggest passion is to share the joy of wine appreciation.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithconradlouw
Oldenburg: Pre-release tasting.
Some of ‘the joys of the job’ can sometimes be quite a treat, such as getting invited for a pre-release tasting of new vintages.
One such an example is having been invited to the Oldenburg flagship launch of their Rondekop range. The big treat in it this instance, is that not only did we get to taste the actual new vintage releases, but also enjoying the luxury viticulturist in the vineyards, as well as the winemaker in the cellar. However, going to Oldenburg always has a terrific start, when turning off the ‘R310’ Banghoek Road towards the winery. Weather-wise it was a perfect day, clear blue skies and not a breath of wind. Autumn was in full swing, but all the painted leaves from the old oak trees were still hanging on for dear life. Just a few leaves started to fall selectively on the sunbathed meadows. Horses grazed next to the river. The tiny narrow little road that snakes alongside the Banghoek River up to the winery displayed some amazing tranquil scenes. A long, solid hedge of flowering blue plumbagoes welcomes visitors up the road to the visitors parking lot, which clearly expresses that horticulture receives its due attention on this farm, especially when observing the rest of the gardens. Oldenburg is set in a mountain-surrounded colosseum, enclosed by the Drakenstein Mountains to the east, Jonkershoek Mountains to the south, and Simonsberg to the west. That will always be one of the first noticeable features of this farm: its views of the majestic mountains. Off-centre in this amphitheatre is a round hill, called Rondekop (rounded hill), lying like a pearl in an oyster. The Rondekop new vintage release pre-tasting was about to begin.But first a tour through the vineyard and cellar, before moving to the tasting room.
Christo Crous, the scientific viticulturist, told the audience about the soil types, the aspect of the various vineyards, their methodical multi-levelledapproach towards curbing vigour in the vineyard, and elaborated on the entire areas’ virus renewal project, which includes the neighbouring farms. They are all endeavouring to make the entire basin free from virus-containing vines. Oldenburg’s focus is on quality, and their standard of quality cannot be achieved if there is any sign of leafroll virus.Owner Adrian Vanderspuy, a strategist, put his money where his mouth is, when the discussion came up between Christo, winemaker Nic van Aarde, and Adrian that lead towards establishing their own vine nursery and laboratory, and he took out his cheque book. Terroir plays a particularly key role in planting the correct vines and clones on the correct soil types, including aspect of the vineyards. That meant that some vineyards even had to be uprooted. An exercise such as that always comes at an excessive cost, however, with the focus on long-term quality, one must also focus on the future. ‘Now is the time to get the vineyards in order for forty years from now!’ Throughout this informal presentation in the vineyard, it was evident that both viticulturist and viniculturistare on the same page. Christo and Nic are team players, and their efforts are channelled towards one goal, i.e., quality wine.
In the cellar, Nic van Aarde is king. His approach towards the wine that he makes is clear to see. Minimal interference, natural/spontaneous fermentation, ageing in wood, which is definitely not dominated by too much new barrels. To Nic, there is no compromise. Everything is made with the intention of being on par with their Rondekop Range. Wine is always made to show finesse with purity of fruit, as opposed to over-extraction. Natural acidities can be achieved when the work in the vineyard was done properly. Thus, wines with low pH’s will result into wines with ageability. Several samples were tasted straight from the barrels of past vintages for future release. ‘Precision’ is a word that can describe Nic’s winemaking style.
The tasting room, or rather ‘the room with a view,’ was next on the agenda, where the “proof of the pudding” was to be established. Tasting room manager, Stefan Reinmuth, is an award-winning highly qualified sommelier and enthusiastic wine educator. The three wines were poured in innovative Zalto Dent’art glasses. In typical top-notch sommelier style, all wines were double decanted three hours before the tasting and served at the correct temperature. The Rondekop range is a small prestige selection of only the best barrels of wine.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithconradlouw
#Oldenburg #RondekopreleaseMay1 #Rondekop #Banghoek
First in line was the Stone Axe 2021 Syrah, named after the prehistoric axes, found in the vineyard when the vineyards were originally established. Deep dark purple in colour, the glasses oozes with perfumed and floral notes, with ripe underlying berries, white pepper, and spice. 2021 was a relative cool vintage and Nic wanted to show some aromatics. For the first time ever, he blended in a little Grenache Noir, just enough to still call it a single variety Syrah, yet it added some of the voluptuousness of the Grenache fruit. Soft velvety tanninsand fresh acidity emphasize the elegance in structure. This was a definite crowd-pleaser amidst the critical tasters.
Then came the Rhodium 2020, the Rondekop Bordeaux blend. Rhodium is a precious metal mined in South Africa and used in the making of jewellery – hence the analogy with this gem of a wine! Sixty percent Cabernet Franc takes the leadin this blend, displaying red and black cherries and summer berries, with subtle savoury notes.Thirty percent Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon completes this blend. There is still tension in this wine, and although very balanced with a tight tannin structure, this wine demands respect. Sometimes it is difficult to remain objective about tasting, as this wine sledgehammered straight into my ‘top respect’ bracket. At only three years old, total infancy, this wine ought to lie for several years and will become a top contender in the category of Bordeaux-style blends. I kept going back to it, and every time another layer was added to this multi-dimensional wine.This is a top-scoring wine, not due to personal preference, but due to the perfect architecture of this piece of art. The wine was in oak barrels for 18 months, of which only 28% of it enjoyed new oak, and its exactly this perfect oak regime that balanced this wine.
We concluded with the Per Se 2020, the prized Rondekop Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark black ruby in colour, with black currants and cassis, this Cab showed true grit. With forty percent new oak barrels, all in barrels for 18 months, the tannin structure needs time to mellow out. Although this is a powerful wine, it shows finesse and elegance. The wine is made to highlight Cabernet Sauvignon, and no doubt, it will still age for many years, if not decades, to come. What a beautiful example of what a South African Cabernet can be.
The Rondekop Pre-release tasting was completed with a mouth-watering lunch. It was fitting of a king’s banquet, very summery on a perfect autumn’s day. If the Rondekop range is above your budget, the rest of the Oldenburg wines are of equal standard and quality. The Oldenburg range displays another Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Grenache Noir, Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc. All those wines are of exceptional quality. There is also a CL range which sports a red blend and white blend. If Oldenburg is not on your soon ‘to-do’ list, it must get there. The view alone is worth the drive out there and the wines will be your reward!
To visit the Oldenburg website. Click on link oldenburgvineyards.com
Conrad Louw
Become an avant-garde wine drinker!
Stories about Artichokes
and two ‘new’ kids on the block…
Sometimes global warming can have some positive spin-offs resulting from it. This is not said to annul anything about Miss Greta Thunberg’s philosophies, but certainly how the South African winemakers and viticulturists have responded to it. Key to manage continuous droughts in the wine lands would be to plant grape varieties that would be prone to drought and to be relatively disease-free. Therefore, the spotlight will be falling on two of these varieties which are considered to be “new kids on the block” in South Africa, but “old hatters” in Europe; namely Vermentino, an old Sardinian grape variety; and Assyrtiko, a local and popular variety in Santorini.
To start off, Vermentino is a popular grape variety in Sardinia, Liguria, and other parts of Italy, such as Corsica, and Piedmont, where it is known as Favorita. This white wine is usually made in a fresh dry style, it can be wooded or un-wooded, has a medium-light body, with a notable crisp acidity. The flavour profile is usually that of lemons, limes, grapefruit pith, lemon blossoms, with a slight bitter raw almond undertone.
The first time that I enjoyed Vermentino, was at the Paardeberg wine farm Ayama. Though the farm dates back from 1685, the first Vermentino block was planted in 2014.When I visited the farm for the first time, their wines and cuisine were masterly presented by the Italian winemaker, Chiara Fabietti, and general manager, Giuseppe Di Benedetto.If passion for grape varieties ever rubbed off from one person to another, it was that day. This Italian couple had put something on the map for me that I hope everybody else would experience at some stage. But why the fuss about Vermentino?
When it comes to food and wine pairings, most people would know that there are several notoriously difficult food items to serve with wine, and those are artichokes, asparagus, raw garlic, etc. Especially the former can impart a metallic taste to wine. Artichokes are also cultivated at Ayama in abundance. Some of their signature dishes are white lasagne with artichokes, as well as the super delicious Romano Artichokes, which they valiantly and fearlessly serve with their Vermentino.
But let us pause for a while at artichokes: I asked my learned friend, Dr Santi Vorster, a former food flavourist at a multinational company, based in the Netherlands, why artichokes would clash with wine. Her explanation did not sound simple, but I will attempt at making it sound uncomplicated. Artichokes contain cynarin, which modulates the sweet receptors on your tongue. Together with other factors, your taste buds can get confused by this, leaving wine to taste like it is served from a tin can. Whatever you eat or drink right afterwards, washes off the compounds, fooling your brain into perceiving sweetness that isn’t actually there. To put this to the test, I bravely made my own white lasagne, laced with roasted artichokes, asparagus, and with parmesan and Crème Fraiche, just to amplify the acidity and creamy richness. A dish such as that would make wine pairing very difficult, but the Ayama Vermentino complimented this dish handsomely.The subtle dried fruit notes of the wine were uplifted; and in turn the wine with its lemon zest acidity cleansed the palate of the creaminess, combining more of the symphony of flavours.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithconradlouw
But do not take my word, go experience this for yourself. Treat yourself to a day out of town, and off the beaten track. Go meet the people of Ayama, taste their wines, and have one of their signature artichoke dishes. Everybody who has joined me there at follow-up visits, had agreed with me. You get transformed to Italy right there, blended with friendly South African hospitality. Go to their website to book yourself an unforgettable Italian experience and explore the beauty of artichokes and Vermentino. https://www.ayama.info
And talking about artichokes, did you know that artichokes is a super vegetable? Cynarin also seems to increase the liver’s production of bile, which helps remove cholesterol from the body and break down gallstones. Artichokes are low in fat while rich in fibre, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. It is particularly high in folate and vitamins C and K, they also supply important minerals, such as magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, and iron. It may lower ‘bad’ LDL cholesterol and increase ‘good’ HDL cholesterol. It may help regulate blood pressure, improve liver health, and it may lower blood sugar, amongst a longer list of other benefits.
Other Vermentino producers include Morgenster, Nomoya (the people who established Ayama), Sakkie Mouton, and Sijn.
Conrad Louw and Ayama Wines
Then lastly, to add a brief note of the other amazing Greek variety, Assyrtiko. I was privy enough to taste this mouth-watering wine from Jordan, their debut vintage of Assyrtiko. We were three wine nerds who got together, Jacques Steyn, the general manager of Jordan Wines, and Winnie Bowman, international wine judge and wine writer, to taste this wine. We were certainly left in awe and impressed by this stunning wine. Assyrtiko is unquestionably a grape variety that will soon become very popular in South Africa due to its mouth-watering and pallet-cleansing acidity, making it extremely pleasant to just enjoy by itself, or to be enjoyed with great food. This indigenous Santorini grape results into wine with everything on the yellow colour spectrum, such as lemons, lemon zest, lemon blossoms, etc. with a firm mineral foundation. It has an incredible naturally high acidity, and is a classy, textural wine with beautiful body and structure. It can be made in many age worthy styles, such as wooded, unwooded (stainless steel tanks), and even sweet wines. It also thrives in dry climates. In the vineyard, it is a fierce fighter against most vine diseases and pests.
The award-winning producer, Mullineux, was the first to produce an amazing rendition of this (new to SA) Greek variety.
So, next time you encounter food with high acidities, or known to clash with artichokes and asparagus, give Sauvignon Blanc a break, and indulgence yourself with Vermentino or Assyrtiko.
Become an avant-garde wine drinker!
Vertical Wine Tastings – the Cliff-hanger of Wine Tastings
People often speak about ‘horizontal tastings’ and ‘vertical tastings.’ For university students it may have entirely different meanings. A horizontal tasting would usually include a tequila challenge with excessive bravery, and I recently saw what a vertical tasting means to them. At the International Sevens rugby at the beautiful stadium in Cape Town, the students would collect empty plastic beer cups, insert one into the other, and feed the tower from the bottom-end. The top-end cup would be half-full of beer, and they would raise this tower up vertically, until it tilts to the side, where an eager fellow-student would then drink from this dancing plastic cup tower. Nope, that is not what I meant by these two types of wine tastings.
A horizontal tasting would be, for example, a specific variety tasting from the same vintage, but from several different regions. That is usually an effective way to identify quality areas, amongst other reasons.
A vertical tasting, on the other hand, could be several different vintages from the same producer and same style of wine, and the golden thread would be, from the same blocks of vineyards. This is a brilliant way of tasting and experiencing first-hand how the specific climatic conditions of a particular season translated into the actual wine. That would include other characteristics such as water availability, sunshine hours, winds,other meso-climatic elements, as well as how soon or late the preceding and following seasons appeared. The one element that would thus always be the same, would-besoil type and aspect of the specific vineyard. Often there may have been a change in winemaker, with their own individual styles of wine making, which can also be tasted. Of course, the tertiary development of the starred wine is one of the best revelations that can be tasted.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithconradlouw
About a year ago, I attended a De Trafford vertical of twenty-four different vintages. That was mind-blowing. The wine from the first vintage was sourced from another place, whilst David Trafford established his own vineyards on his magnificent hide-away farm against the Stellenbosch mountains. This was rather clear on the taste. But for all the other consecutive vintages, the specific wines evolved into a beautiful narrative. I have also been privy to several other vertical tastings, including different vintages of David Trafford’s amazing Chenin Blancs. Quite recently a small wine-tasting group that I started in the Overstrand area tasted three years of Spier’s “21 Gables” Pinotage – the 2011, 2013 and 2014.This was quite a revelation to the people present, most of whom were not au fait with vertical tastings.
The Commanderie de Bordeaux recently met at the amazing Constantia Glen for, amongst others, a vertical tasting of their prized “TWO,” their Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon white Bordeaux blends, as well as their “FIVE” red Bordeaux blends. The vintages of both flights were 2012, 2014, 2017, and 2020. WHOA! What a privilege and treat that was! It was astounding how the weather patterns of those years translated into the glasses, and how amazingly fresh and superlative the older wines still glow with luster. I was totally bowled over. Then of course, the Maître of the Commanderie de Bordeaux Afrique du Sud, Dr. Winnie Bowman, had to rub salt into my wounds by telling me that she has had the privilege of a 50-year vertical of Sassicaia’s wines, arguably Tuscany’s most prestigious winery. That, and a 50-year vertical of Lebanon’s historic Chateau Musar. I was green with envy, but these are rare and valuable opportunities that really happen to ‘the lucky and the strong.’
So, the reason I call a true vertical tasting a cliff-hanger, is because throughout the entire process of tasting each vintage as an autonomous wine, one can then compare it to its older and/or younger siblings. Thereby the tasters create a carefully crafted scene that leaves them with the fear or anxiety of having missed out not having aged their own wines, or not having obtained more bottles of a certain vintage. People who attend serious verticals, are always part of creating stories built on reputable track records. One can only end by wondering when, where, and whose wine will I be able to taste vertically?
Conrad Louw
Tasting water
Tasting wine is what I do. But when I get asked to taste water and give my opinions about it and I am metaphorically like a fish out of water. After all, is water not just water? But since I like a challenge, especially a non-alcoholic one, then I will put myself up to the test. South Africa has its only and own proud qualified water sommelier, Candice Jansen, with whom I connected – thanks to social media. Candice is a water ambassador who wants to bring awareness to water, just like the small handful of other water sommeliers in the world. Everybody has a need for clean drinking water, yet a quarter of the world’s population does not have this privilege. Well, Candice had put me up to the challenge to be impressed by some of the waters available over the world, and it took quite some time to obtain dedicated time to give the water challenge its right dues.
My first question was, however, what gives water its taste? Every source of water has its own taste profile, largely reliant on the source of it. After all, I remember doing a Whisky tour in Scotland’s Speyside, every producer echoed the same in that their water source is the success to their Whisky’s unique taste. Every bit of water source is surrounded by different landscapes with different mineral deposits. Similarly, in wine, soil plays a magnificent role in the quality of the resultant wine that the vine grows in. The question still stands – does one source of water taste different to another, and if so, why?
Our municipal tap water is always treated for antimicrobial activities due to dirty sources of dams and rivers. That treatment will obviously have its effect on the taste of the water. Most often, chlorine and sulfur are added, which can make water taste unwholesome; likewise, potassium and copper can make it taste bitter; whilst zinc, iron and manganese can cause a metallic taste, sodium and chloride together can make it taste salty. Our tap water is often described as “hard”, which results from high concentrations of calcium and magnesium. Water pipes build up scales, so, imagine what it can do to your insides. However, not to put you off from your own available drinking water, let us look at some bottled water from ‘far-out’ sources.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithconradlouw
Conrad Louw
So, the still water up to taste, were Lofoten Arctic water from Norway; Wossa from Austria; and Three Bays premium water from Australia. The natural fizz waters were Perlage Low Sodium from Poland; Gaisberg from Austria; and Three Bays from Victoria, Australia. Each water source has its own exceptional story trailing thousands of years.
Although Candice gave me guidelines to go by, I decided to first taste and experience the water on my own, so as not to be influenced by any bias opinion. I know water sommeliers insist on drinking water in a special glass, and not just a normal vessel. I decided to use a red wine glass for each water. So, six different bottles, six different glasses, and six dedicated tasting attempts. Unlike wine, which offers the taster an organoleptic experience of visual appearance, aromas, bouquet, and a taste sensation, water does not have these kind of aromatic flavour profiles. Yet, they tasted distinctly different one from the other. In an attempt to differentiate the waters for myself, I decided to describe the water with a colour connotation. Not that any person can go by that, but for me it sorts of worked, even though more tongue in cheek. Lofoten: iced platinum; Wossa: white silver; Three Bays: earthy white; Gaisberg: creamy bubbly; Perlage: metal silver; and the Three Bays Sparkling: ice white. But these colours do not mean anything, that was just how I thought I wanted to set out I my own to create differences.
To my great surprise I realised that every water smelled and tasted very different one from the other. The big revelation to me, however, was undoubtedly the bubble. As a wine taster, I have been taught that one can identify the different bubbles in wine by its mouthfeel, mousse, and coarseness of the bubble, which is directly proportionate to the way the bubble was made, like a second fermentation in the bottle (such as Champagne with its fine bubble); Méthode Ancienne, the Charmat method, or just plain CO2 gas insertion with its coarse bubble. The bubbles and mousse of these natural sparkling waters are exactly the same – fine and creamy. To compare it, I took a sip of a commercial sparkling water made by a large soft drinks company, and the difference was a massive burp.
I took my time going through all these waters, retasting them, smelling and pondering about it all, thinking about how vastly dissimilar these waters are. The Wossa glass was the first to be empty, which I guess was a water that I kept on going back to – very pure, which left a freshness in my mouth after every sip. One would guess that after drinking so much water, one could reach a saturated level of “Adam’s Ale”, but I poured a second glass of the Perlage. It was just so satisfying, and undoubtedly a water which can hold its own when enjoyed with a meal. It is truly a silky smooth and creamy effervescent water, and I savoured it like I would a vintage Champagne.
I often hike in the beautiful mountains of the Kogelberg Biosphere, and one of the treats I always give myself, is to taste the tea-coloured fynbos-infused water. High up in the mountains where no people live, the water always tastes sweet and earthy. A taste that I will never again take for granted, or brush aside that “all water tastes like water”,indeed a renewed appreciation, thanks to ambassador Candice Jansen! @originfloe
Less
is
more wine
When less is more…
Food bloggers have the knack of creating beautiful dishes, elaborately plated with colour and simplicity. Using two words like ‘elaborate’ and ‘simplicity’ in one sentence is anoxymoron, yet, when you look at some of those photos, it makes pure sense. When the French fashion food, nouvelle cuisine, hit the world many years ago, people were amazed by the plating skills of the chefs, but big macho eaters did not like it – it came at the cost of feeling unsatisfied after the meal. Yet, it was all about freshness, lightness, and clear food flavours, and it inspired a whole new world trend in food.
Today, on a global platform and in all spheres, the spotlight falls on sustainability and carbon footprint. Even wineries started moving towards changing many vineyard and cellar practices to reduce carbon emission, and to use sustainable practices.
Recently I came upon wine called “less,” and I wondered what the aim was, and what about the quality of wine if it is called ‘less’? The concept is intriguing and a deeper look into it was worth the effort. The entire philosophy is based upon sustainability, and less interference from vineyard to the cellar to the bottle. Concisely, the sustainable practices start in the vineyard, where sustainable viticultural practices include less chemicals and pesticides. Then comes the packaging itself. One could start with the noticeable lighter bottle of both the Chardonnay and Pinotage, which means extremely low carbon footprint and reduce transportation cost. The beautiful paper-free labels are printed on stylish textured eco-friendly cotton linters, with ornate space, containing only the necessary legal requirements, open space, and the word “less” on the top lefthand side, followed below by the variety ‘chardonnay’ or ‘pinotage,’ and the vintage. The Wine of Origin indicates Robertson. There is no foil at the top and exposes thezero-carbon footprint bio-cork which has been naturally sourced from plant-based polymers.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithconradlouw
Less Wine
This sounds all very environmentally astute, and it is. But what about the wine? Let us face it there are still many people out there who do not care about what the earth will look like another hundred years from now. After all, they buy the wine to consume now, so what does it taste after all the ‘window-dressing’ and the wine is in my glass? In my personal opinion – the Chardonnay surprised me. I enjoy it when you bring a glass to your nose, and you know exactly what is in the glass. Plush citrus notes with underlying white stone fruit undertones. Full and creamy on the palate with a crisp acidity, which remains on the aftertaste. Elegant and sophisticated, just like the packaging promised. The Pinotage has an amazing fruit profile of both red berries and black cherries, supported by spiciness, tobacco, and the oaking regime. The tannins are silky smooth. Overall, a serious wine with good balance and structure. It is clear that it was made by a seasoned winemaker.
The word ‘less’ is thus very unpretentious. There is a lot more that I received from the wine. At a price that suggest ‘less,’ one can easily buy more of this wine and heighten your taste sensations. Unlike the post-feeling of emptiness after a nouvelle cuisine meal, “less” leaves you with a genuine feeling of satisfaction.
This lightbulb idea comes from Marlene Truter, and can be reached via her website of www.lessismorewine.com
#less #lessismore #chardonnay #pinotage #wineoforigonrobertson #carbonfootprint #ecofriendly #sustainability
Wine and curry
Winters always call for hearty curries and red wine. Even some of the partisan white wine drinkers can sometimes long for a sip of good red wine. But red wine and curry? Most people would call that a no-no.
Wonderful fragrant Cape Malay curry dishes are the easiest to please with the fragrant white wines such as a beautifully balanced Viognier, or an off-dry Gewürztraminer or Weisser Riesling, especially those from the Mosel. It is just always a winning combination. Pairing tip: “Fragrant food with fragrant wine.” Even wooded Chardonnays will work. Curry, in general, is easy to pair with white wine.
But what happens when you want a curry of stature, like a Durban curry, and you are one of the staunchest big-bodied red wine drinkers? Well, my friend, then you have a bit of an obstacle. Spicy food and wine with big tannins clash. So, your go-to wine should be a light bodied red, like a Cinsault or a red wine without those big tannins. Personally, I love big red wines, and I also look to concoct a mean curry. My curry is certainly not a Durban curry, nor South or North Indian curry. It neither has the delicate flavours of a Thai curry, although I use a lot of their ingredients too. I have picked up tips over the years from good curry makers and have incorporated those into my own curries. My curry may not be the best, but I doubt that you will get a more fragrant spiced dish than what I would serve. I do not work off recipes, which is admittedly perhaps a flaw in my cooking. I love constructing my own masalas by lightly roasting spices such as cardamom seeds, star anise, coriander seeds, cumin, bay leaf, cloves, etc. in a pan; and then turning it into a powder with an old-fashioned granite pestle and mortar. I love using various fresh roots and bulbs such as chilies, ginger, garlic, turmeric, galangal, and the most fragrant of them all, if you can get your hands on some, fingerroot (Boesenbergia rotunda). Some of this I also grind into a paste in same said pestle and mortar, and some I just chop up finely. The aromas and fragrances are just mind-blowing. Of course, I also love the leafy stuff and regard it as obligatory, such as lemongrass and fresh lime leaves, chopped up. All of this, together with the other obvious curry ingredients, make up the base of my curries.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithconradlouw
Conrad Louw
Now, the question posed here, is how can any full-bodied red wine with a big tannin structure, stand up against this array of huge clashing flavours? This past weekend I invited two lots of guests for a test. I made lamb curry with above ingredients; and served two wines with the mains. One safe bet was I served Paul Cluver Riesling, and another option was the Malanot Cyclops Malbec 2019. What a knock-out that was! Due to the aging in bigger barrels, 300 and 500 litres, some new and some old, the medium tannin structure supported the fruit profile in the wine, instead of dominating it. The perceived sweetness (the wine is dry) of the fruit in the wine such as the blackberries, blackcurrants, cherries, showed off like a real blockbuster movie, and the compliment between spice in the food, and the fruit profile of the Malanot Cyclops Malbec, was astonishing. My cynicism that it was going to be a clashing waste of a beautiful Malbec, was unsupported. At last, a stunning full-bodied red wine, unashamedly made in a New World style, could stand its own against all that spice. The Riesling also tasted good, but it was the Malanot Cyclops Malbec that grabbed the spotlight!
Savouring on CAPE BLENDS
While sipping on some tradition, identity, history, or a Cape Blend, life can be very gratifying. When it comes to wine, the Cape produces some of the best iconic wines in the world, and proudly amongst those wines, Cape blends would highlight the proud heritage of these South African wines. Together with other noble red varieties, Pinotage, our proudly South African grape, can shape the most remarkable wines out there. This has been proven by archetypal wine producers such as Abrie Beeslaar, Danie Steytler, Beyers Truter, Jan Boland Coetzee, and Johan Malan, to name but a few. Although not yet governed by specific laws on ratios, producers usually would aim to let Pinotage make out between 30% and 70% of the total blend of a bottle, whilst others see a Cape Blend as any blend of wine containing Pinotage. It is probably worth reading up on it, as it is a style that will remain to inspire.
Another informal classification that we have in the Cape, is to refer to any white blend containing Chenin Blanc, our wondrous workhorse of a grape, as a Cape White Blend. It is so varied in style of wine making, that it is impossible to put it in a compartment and label it. However, it is a blend that so many winemakers produce so successfully, giving beautiful charm to this noble variety.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithconradlouw
Conrad Louw
It is surreal for me too pen this bottle of Deetlefs Familie Red 2017. A big, beautiful wine indeed, and it reminds me of the privileged opportunities that I have had to sip on so many wines as grand as this. This wine is no doubt the flagship of this iconic Breedekloof family wine farm that has produced wine for exactly two centuries now. Steeped in rich embroider history, tradition, family values, legacies, and many pioneering tales,the Deetlefs are the proud producers of both red and white Cape Blends. Furthermore, they pay homage to South Africa’s wine history by putting one of the country’s old stalwart grapes, Muscat d’Alexandrie, by making a beautiful opulent and luscious “Soet Hanepoot”, redirecting some spotlight to this old variety.The Deetlefs farm has received countless prizes and accolades over the years for not only their excellent wines, but also for their progressive viticulture practices. And the stories that are told from generation to generation, seven if we must count, leave us in awe and mirth of all their achievements
Back to the bottle of wine I have just opened – a big wine indeed. I love the spiciness, the nuances of chocolates, with an abundance of black and red fruit and berries. I love the way that the Cabernet supports the Pinotage and other varieties. There is a brilliant balance in this well-structured wine, perfectly supported by the ingenious barrel treatment it received. I also could not resist grilling a piece of protein to compliment the wine. It is a five-year-old wine, much too young to be opened, but alas! I could not wait to sip on it.
Daring to savour MEAD
Mead is a polarizing drink. It is either love or hate, but with my approach to drinks, one should at least TRY it once. Technically Mead is not wine, though it is often referred to as “honey wine.” Its origins date back from long before modern humans walked the face of the earth. Epochs ago, wild African bees made honey in hollowed out trees. After torrential rain washed some of the honey out into other hollows, the natural occurring yeast would ferment this honeyed water. Animals probably got drunk on it long before man did. Most certainly the Khoikhoi nations did. After all, it was the nectar gift from their gods.
As established, mead is not wine. When drunk fresh or ‘young,’ it tastes more like cider or floral honeyed beer. As it matures, and the alcohol percentage increases, the taste of wine becomes more prolific. Modern mead producers often add fruit or botanicals to their fermenting honey and water, thereby creating distinctive and fascinating dimensions to it. Apart from its unique taste, many people regard mead as healthy. Honey is a probiotic containing many antibacterial properties. Imagining what this fermented bevvy could do to your GI tract! Mead is not always as sweet as honey. It is made to end up with various sugar levels, even up to being considered dry
Historically, wherever conquistadores found new worlds, monks always planted grapes to make wine for sacramental purposes. In areas where grapes could not be planted, honey was harvested and fermented into mead. Apparently, the word “honeymoon” sprouted from the Irish tradition whereby the wedding couple was supposed to drink a glass of ‘honey wine’ (mead) in one another’s presence to celebrate their closeness, happiness, and joy, thereby establishing a foundation for their lives together.They had to continue this ritual for an entire month long. Or, from one full moon to the next. Hence the word honeymoon.
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Conrad Louw
I was gifted a bottle of Mellivora Mead, not a regular on my “tipple list.”Mellivora is produced from fynbos honey sourced near Hopefield on the West Coast of the country and is only made in small batches. This afternoon, while jotting this down, the weather had suddenly changed. Ominous rain clouds gathered above, herded by the wind, like sheepdogs would herd sheep. I jumped to the opportunity to light a fire and put tapas and nibbles on a platter. Amongst others, I also baked a camembert in pastry. Instead of the usual egg wash, I dripped honey on the pastry and sprinkled it with black sesame seeds. Just for fun, I served the Mellivora mead in a Riedel Vinum Hennessy Cognac glass, whereas usually people would use an egg-shaped wine glass.The decisive moment arrived. Despite my cynicism, this mead tasted good. Extraordinarily good, so much so, that I must say that this probably the best mead on which I have ever sipped. The honey flavour was augmented slightly with oak ageing, and it offers faint nuances of juniper and hops – an aspect with which I am totally besotted. Slightly floral with honey flavour, caramelised pineapple, stewed apple, and with that welcoming herbaceous undertone, the complexity is fascinating. The alcohol is on the lower side at 10.5%. The residual sugar, mouthfeel, and other offerings are all in perfect balance. Smooth indeed. At the riskof criticism, I want to utter that it tastes almost like savouring a beautiful Chenin Blanc dessert wine from a sunny country. And heck, it enhanced my non-creative snack platter tremendously!
And to end off with some something to consider, remember when there is an alcohol embargo during lock down, there are options other than brewing pineapple beer!
The Casanova of grapes
This is a story about lovers a plenty, shenanigans during moonlit evenings, and remarkable intimate legacies. History offers many stories of ladies’ men such as Casanovas, Romeos, Don Juans, who enchanted ladies wherever they went. Well, in the world of wine, there is a similar story of a heart-throb called Cabernet Sauvignon who did his rounds. This grape of stature resulted in having fathered extraordinary noble grapes. It must have been a beautiful moonlit evening when the dark-skinned Cabernet Franc enthralled blushing leafy Sauvignon Blanc. Cabernet Sauvignon, known for big, structured age worthy wines was born.
But few know of the shy ancient lady and mother of Malbec, called Magdaleine Noire des Charentes, who charmed Cabernet Franc and gave birth to the famous Merlot grape. Merlot, the ruler of the Right Bank Bordeaux, reigns supreme with her father Cab Franc! It was the same Cab Franc who fathered Carménère. But after the dreaded disease Phylloxera caused devastation in Bordeaux, poor Carménère was banished to Chile, where it now lives happily-ever-after.
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This nobleman Cabernet Franc is the hero of many Bordeaux blends, but often stands back for the spotlight to rather fall on Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. But on its own, it certainly has charmed many wine afficionados over the world. Many people romance the idea of drinking single varietal wines, and this is where Cab Franc shines. With descriptors such as floral notes, blackberries, red and green capsicum, green and black olives, and Provençale herbs, every year the 4th of December enthusiasts pay homage to this noble grape. South African producers such as Raats, Holden Manz, Jordan and Antonij Rupert make some of the best examples of Cab Franc. My list is long. There are so many that are note-worthy,highly recommended ones that will cause you too to romance Cab Franc. Tonight, I am treasuring a Gabriëlskloof 2016. There is so much going on in my glass, so much to be thankful for.
Conrad Louw
Tasting wine off the beaten track
Vagrants who have been to the Cederberg Wilderness Area, will know very well that one does not just ‘stumble’ upon it. Indeed, it is meant for the adventurer who fears no journey too far. Only a determined decision will get you on the road to the Cederberg and surrounds. It is a place where a weary travellers will calm a troubled mind; where rock formations tell stories of forgotten gargoyles; where ancient rock drawings of yesteryear’s nomads still tell tales; and where silence reverberates in the mountain cliffs. It is also a promised land where remarkable wines are made. Thus, the journey into that area rewards all travellers with the privilege to taste wine that is more than ten-fold its worth.
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One should make a whole celebration of it, or at least a weekend. Sight-seeing is plentiful, and day hikes for the energetic can take enthusiasts to the Maltese Cross rock formations, or Wolfberg Arch, the ‘Stadsaal’ Caves, or the heritage site of Truitjieskraal to view some rock-drawings. However, you journey will be lacking without savouring the various wines made at Dwarsrivier, aka as Cederberg Wines. The mammoth achievement of the entrepreneurial winemaker, David Nieuwoudt, can easily be seen and tasted. He took the elements that nature gave him, such as perfect yet varied soil types, pristine pure water from the Sneeuberg Mountains, and orchestrated wines with balance, elegance, and structure.“Wine with Altitude!” The Cederberg Wines are made in the high-altitude vineyard, and perfected in the cellar by David and his highly trained team. Several different ranges of wines are made there, including Ghost Corner with the Wine of Origin from Elim. The endless string of awards, both locally and internationally, bear testimony of the precision with which the wines have been made. Sauvignon Blanc has been a favourite variety of David to express his alchemy with, but his reputation has been augmented with the accolades received for Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc, amongst others.
Conrad Louw
Mono Date Night
Asking if drinking wine on your own is acceptable, will arguably have a polarizing outcome. The French believe in a daily glass of red wine for health benefits, but we are not all French.However, there are times when one can drink by oneself. I sometimes do that,where I deliberately plan to open a bottle of wine and turn it into an event. As madcap as it may seem, those are my most enjoyable evenings and most memorable wines I enjoy. Whether it is seared scallops,or a beautiful piece of protein grilled to perfection on the menu, I always switch my phone off listen to my choice of music, be it Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon or Maria Callas. Getting into the perfect mindset is key. That is when I open a perfect bottle of wine, drunk from my finest wine glasses. I forget about the world around me and live for the moment. Candles and fire. I cook, sip, savour, enjoy.
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Recently I ‘orchestrated’ an evening such as that, and opened a bottle of Taaibosch Crescendo 2018, magically crafted by Maestro Schalk Willem Joubert. A deep, dark intense Cabernet Franc-driven Bordeaux style wine. It was a perfect Autumn evening, and the setting sun met with the dark night. My rump steak was flavoured with a Jamie Oliver type of rub of orange rind, fennel seeds, garlic, treacle sugar, and olive oil, crushed in a pestle and mortar. The steak was cooked to the rare side of medium-rare. Dated music from the movie Blue Velvet was filling the fast-approaching darkness. Visions of Isabella Rossellini briefly crossed my mind. Amidst the music, there was silence. Just the elements, the wine and the moment surrounding me. These are the elements that could invigorate one’s mind. It is important to appreciate one’s own space from time to time, irrespective of how seldom it occurs.
Savouring wine can take on many forms. It is said that wine is best when enjoyed with friends Sometimes it is me, myself, I, who are those friends, and we enjoy sacred moments together.
Conrad Louw