About Amilinda Wilkinson
I’ve had a complex love-affair with food and wine for as long as I can remember
Pretty plates. Coffee art. Sourdough bread.The smooth curves of a dark glass wine bottle. Cocktails with dramatically elaborate garnishes. Daintily pleated dim-sums and perfectly cooked eggs benedict than when you cut into it, coat your breakfast in bright yellow sunshine. Gooey, chewy pistachio macarons and hand-crafted chocolate bars with just the perfect amount of snap. The smell of bacon in the morning and the taste of a cup of chamomile tea at night. The almost-holy, closed-eye experience of eating a good burger with all the trimmings. The simple pleasure of tearing into a spinach and feta croissant with the sea breeze in your face. The warm promises of red wine when you stick your nose in the glass. The pop of a cork.
And then…after many, many years, I finally discovered that I’m a writer at the core of my heart. A wordsmith, with an insatiable hunger for more. From my love of Cape Town and its plentiful abundant pantry, The Little Hedonist was borne. These days, when I’m not behind my day-job desk, I dedicate every single word I write to our dynamic and incredibly generous food and wine industry, its people and its world-class produce, conquering the beauty of our winelands one bottle and one plate at a time. Oh, and I love macarons. I’m super passionate about those!
CELEBRATING 200 YEARS OF EXCELLENCE
They say in a perfect world, everyone would have a glass of sparkling wine every evening. I’ve long learned not to save a good Cap Classique only for special or celebratory occasions. In fact, I try and pop a cork in the most mundane moments, simply for the pure joy and aesthetic beauty of a glass of bubbles.
Recently, I decided to dress up a relatively bland Tuesday evening with a sparkle of Deetlefs White Pinotage CC 2018 after saving it way too long for that anticipated special occasion. I’ve been longing to pour this bottle and a quiet almost mid-week evening seemed as good a night as any. After an incredibly satisfying twist and pop of the cork, I settled down with a glass to ponder over my dinner options.
Deetlefs White Pinotage CC 2018
I should first mention why I’ve been so enthralled with this particular bottle. An interesting blend of Pinotage (85%) and Chardonnay (15%), it does not present the expected salmon-coloured hue on the first pour. Whole bunch pressed for minimum extraction of tannins and colour from the skins, it is a pale golden liquid with a very delicate and lively mousse.
With more than 20 months on the lees, the time and effort that went into crafting this unique wine can simply not go unnoticed or unappreciated. Good things take time and great things take a bit longer, as the story of the Deetlefs estate remind us.
On the palate, it’s clean and crisp and deliciously complex, with a basket of fruit on the nose. A certain richness, a slight hum of caramel-y warmth, only to be cut by whiffs of zesty lime and citrus. For a moment, I considered the relative necessity of dinner, and wondered if the bottle alone could function as a meal replacement. But alas, I was itching to pair my dinner companion to something suitably delicious.
Amilinda Wilkinson
Amilinda Wilkinson
Chicken stuffed buns
As my gluten-free dough rose and developed under a tea-towel, I made a filling with roast chicken, fresh garden veggies and herbs, and a luscious sweet red pepper compote. I wanted to make little chicken stuffed buns, perfect hand-sized morsels to balance out a glass of Deetlefs in the other. A quick roll, stuff, pinch and a flurry of sesame seeds later, and they were huddled snug in the air fryer basket for a bake.
200 years of excellence
The legacy of the Deetlefs Wine Family stretches over 200 years with it being the second oldest family-owned wine estate in South Africa under ownership of the same family. A maiden voyage from Europe on 3 October 1752 was the start of a beautiful journey that set-in motion the story of Deetlefs Wine Estate & the family run business it is today.It is,among other things, a passion for innovation that has defined the Deetlefs Family wine estate throughout its 200-year history.
In conclusion
I was delighted by the pairing. Soft, chewy and very fragrant, the chicken buns simply lapped up the fruit-laden offering of the Deetlefs White Pinotage CC, without overpowering or competing with the complexities of the wine. It was a quiet night, filled with gently clinking glasses and the occasional knife and fork scrape, or the interjection of a hand reaching over the table for another warm bun. Because not every occasion needs to be big or bold to be celebrated or special. A glass of Deetlefs wine has the extraordinary way of turning any ordinary moment into something memorable.
Cheers to the next 200 years & a legacy surpassing a few lifetimes.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithamilinda
The Mellivora Story
and the
Mellivora Mojito
My first taste of what I thought was mead, was during a visit to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. Our self-appointed guide and local historian brought an armful of tiny glass jugs to our lunch spread on a hot afternoon, as we sought shelter from the relentless sun. After a morning of getting to know this incredible city from its insides out, we were parched and ready to tuck into the promises of the sour injira and tibs.
We drank this icy sweet-savoury beverage straight from the glass bottle, an exhilirant mix of raw honey, water and a local medicinal shrub, home brewed for special occasions. It was refreshing and more-ish, and offered a flavour profile I found both intriguing and intensely complex at the same time. “Tej” is in fact a honey-wine, much like mead, but I only got the chance, almost 12 years later, to taste mead that might outshine this memory I hold of a sweltering afternoon in Addis.Now, a few weeks ago, turning a gorgeously golden bottle of Mellivora Mead in my hands, I knew I was standing on the brink of a revolution; a quest to restore honour to this age-old craft.
Mead over the years
While the oldest known mead dates to Crete almost 8,000 years ago, the history of this drink goes back far beyond that to the plains of Southern Africa and the San bushmen around 20,000 to 40,000 years ago. But since Ragnar Lodbrok and his Vikings in Kattegat chugged mugs of rugged mead before the next plunder, this honey-beverage has modernised and evolved significantly over time.
The knowledge needed to create this intoxicating honey beverage spread from the San of Southern Africa, through central Africa, to Ethiopia, Egypt and eventually into Europe where it took hold as a crucial part of European culture. The rarity of honey, and the lack of modern beekeeping processes made mead a drink of royalty and celebration.
Amilinda Wilkinson
Amilinda Wilkinson
The Mellivora Story
Inspired by a trip to Lithuania, Dr Lloyd Hughes, an aerospace engineer with an appetite for nature’s pantry, decided to create something that goes against all the sugary sweet syrups that are often commercially labelled as mead. Having tasted a more savoury, hoppy version of mead in Lithuania, he quickly changed gears on his return to South Africa from hobby beer brewing to perfecting the ancient art of mead-making. In a beautiful full circle, Lloyd took on the immense challenge of reviving this historic beverage in its true home, and to bring the culture and history of mead back to its roots in South Africa.
A great celebration of our unique and intensely fragrant local honey, Mellivora is a small batch, semi-sweet mead that tastes like sun-drenched fynbos and raw, warm honey straight from the hive with a little hop of lightness at the end. Add in some dark layers of oak, and it becomes a premium product that captures the best of our beautifully diverse country through various intricate layers of flavour, but in one sleek bottle.
At first taste
As it should, I poured a small glass of Mellivora mead to taste neat. Heady with scents of dripping honey, I was excited by the fresh hoppy notes I could carefully gather, lingering in the background. At first sip, I was completely taken by surprise by the concentrated honey flavour, but it wasn’t sickly sweet at all – rather wonderfully, it was carefully infused with an earthiness reminiscent of woody herbs and buchu, a true taste of our local flora. Once the savoury aromas taper down, the palate suddenly lifts with that signature hops taste of beer, neither overpowering nor shy, but pleasantly refreshing in the long finish.
Serving suggestion
I couldn’t help but lay out a spread of Greek bakes from a recent visit to Yiayia’s Table to pair with my mead. A Bougatsa spiral pie, filled with custard cream, some Melomakarona (Greek honey biscuits) and of course, a couple of true Kourabiedes (Greek shortbread), speckled with roasted almonds and a cloud-puff of icing sugar. The combination of double honey, roasted nuts, buttery biscuits and cinnamon-spice was absolutely delectable, and before long, our glasses needed refilling.
The Tall One was inspired to create a mixed drink with our Mellivora Mead, so I left him to it whilst I collected crispy pieces of flaky phyllo pastry from the plate with my finger.
A subtle mix, he added a dash of spiced rum, a few drops of orange bitters and topped with sparkling coconut water. Honey and spice are best friends for a reason. Let’s call it the Mellivora Mojito. Gorgeous as an aperitif, equally suitable for sundowners or post-dessert indulgence.
In conclusion
I’m excited to see how mead continues to grow and develop in South Africa, and where it will place in households. A proudly home-brewed beverage, I hope that Mellivora Mead finds its way back to Lithuania one day if only to show off its floral fynbos cloak, but for now, it should find its way to your collection. Thank you so much, Lloyd, for sharing this passion of yours with us, and for highlighting yet again the incredible pantry and potential our country holds.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithamilinda
Kimushki: bold in taste, Brave in confidence
Almost always, regardless of the size thereof, every achievement starts with a first step. A small one, a big one, a wonky one or even one taken in a moment of braveness –in life, there is no way but forward. In these uncertain times we find ourselves in, many tough decisions have been made with a first step. Many exciting decisions have been made with a first step.And in these uncertain times we find ourselves in, we often forget our inner lionhearted courage that led to that first step to start with. It’s precisely in a moment like this, that Kim, owner and founder of Kimushki gin, took her first step and showed her true strength.
I recently received the most generous gift of a bottle of small-batch Kimushki gin, the name beautifully translating to “The Brave One.” Long before the satisfying pop-pull of the cork, I took time to indulge in the bottle with my eyes. Incredibly delicate and cleverly designed with a focus on elegance and timeless shelf-appeal, it’s a simply stunning bottle of gin. I adored the smooth lines of the slim rectangular bottle, the illusion of lazy Khoi fish circling a pond – I could almost feel the embrace of the tranquil silence found in a meditation garden.
Inspired by the age-old tradition of serving aperitifs to ease into the evening and to prepare the palate before dinner, Kimushki explores invigorating yet simple taste sensations to savour with appreciation.
Amilinda Wilkinson
Amilinda Wilkinson
Kimushki is more than just a gin; it’s an acknowledgement of the luxurious borrowing of time, of easy simplicity, of pure enjoyment. As I pulled the cork slowly and with intent, I unknowingly released an intensely pleasurable bouquet of grapefruit, citrus zest and deep orange aromas – my favourite additions to a classic gin.
At first taste, neatly poured in a tumbler, I was introduced to the complex, darker notes of the first fill French Chardonnay barrels in which it was left to gently age. Expertly infused, it was the perfect catalyst for the zesty vibrance of citrus. It also lends Kimushki gin its signature golden colour as well a chance to amplify those voluptuous fruity notes.
Even though it was good enough to enjoy on its own (I’m that kind of person), I wanted to add a simple syrup to the classic Kimushki G&T. I had a wander through my herb garden and decided that marjoram was the perfect partner for the citrus notes, adding a slight savoury note to the simple syrup. I slowly brought thick slices of fresh grapefruit, handfuls of garden-picked marjoram and a dash of brown sugar to a rolling boil in a pot, waiting for it to transform into syrupy goodness. The colour was simply phenomenal; with a hue that reminded of freshly squeezed carrot juice, the syrup was earthy and fresh, yet gorgeously complementary to the carefully balanced palate of Kimushki gin.
Served with a good quality tonic water, and a dash of my marjoram syrup, Tim and I sat back to enjoy a drink. Together, but in silence, appreciating the simple pleasures that carry us through this journey of life.
On a sidenote, I particularly loved the idea of being able to purchase a refill for your Kimushki bottle. Sold in a 1 litre soft pack, you can do your part in protecting the planet by refilling your stunning Kimushki gin bottle straight from the refill pack. Sustainability has never tasted this good.
An elegant and bold bottle, this debut gin of Kimushki is an honourable addition to my gin collection. It’s the gin I’ll pull out when I have the luxury of time, when I need to slow down and seek balance, enjoyment, or just a moment of reprieve. It’s the bottle I’ll pull out when I celebrate the small achievements and reflect on first steps. I hope you all have the courage to take that first step. That you will be reminded of your inner lionhearted braveness, built into the fibres of your being. Remember the ethos and symbolism of Kimushki – you are the Brave one.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithamilinda
Sweets for my sweet, but Pinotage Rosé for me
Deetlefs Stonecross Pinotage Rosé 2019
Everyone’s either a sweet or savoury person. You’re either a chocolate or a chips person; ice cream or pretzels; a cake or pie person. The eternal anomaly, I’m stuck somewhere in the middle, with a slight edge to the savoury side. Coincidentally, that is how I prefer my Rosé, too, with some savoury notes crushed between the ripe red berry aromas.
And when one speaks of Rosé, you need to speak of dessert, too. For that after-dinner craving, I’m constantly involved in a long internal monologue about whether I’ll have the chocolatey brownies or rather the baked cheesecake, with that deliciously piquant tang. I almost always end up with a bit of both on my plate.
Amilinda Wilkinson
Amilinda Wilkinson
Deetlefs Stonecross Pinotage Rosé 2019
After my love affair with Syrah, I have big blue eyes for a Pinotage. Proudly South African, it’s a staple in my wine racks. I recently received a bottle of Deetlefs Stonecross Pinotage Rosé 2019 as the seasons started to turn, and, as a last ode to summer, I wanted to pair it with something sweet.
Pomegranate parfait
With pomegranates neither sweet nor sugary, it was an obvious pairing for the luscious copper-rouge colour of the Deetlefs Rosé. Even though “parfait” sounds difficult to make and even more difficult to pronounce, it’s as easy or complex as you want it to be.
For my pomegranate parfait, I mixed a quarter cup of condensed milk into two cups of my favourite full-cream plain yoghurt, adding a yummy thickness to the base. I added a handful of crushed biscuits, glistening, gem-like pomegranate arils and fresh basil, layered in coupé glasses for a quick treat that’s not laden with sugary sweetness.
I relished in the surprisingly slightly salty finish of the Rosé, bringing together the fresh acidity and depth of summer fruits that lingered long after I scooped the last of the parfait from the glass. A beautiful food-driven wine, the Deetlefs Stonecross Pinotage Rosé 2019 is the perfect wine to herald the start of the cooler weather. A suitable interlude sipper, it dresses down to be enjoyed entirely on its own or dresses up warmly to be paired with your favourites, whether savoury or sweet.
I prefer my Rosé paired with candlelight or a wood fire, with an equal amount of chocolate and pretzels on the side, just in case the craving hits and I can’t make up my mind. At least I’m settled on what should be in my glass!
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithamilinda
Nothing ordinary about Coco Safar’s coffee
Wine and ice cream. Nougat and Cap Classique. Gin and pizza. Tea and biscotti. Cupcakes and cocktails. Olive oil and bread. Cheese and charcuterie. I’ve heard and done it all. Cape Town is the capital of thrilling and tantalising food pairings, aimed at satiating the appetite of even the most adventurous foodie.
But what if I told you there’s a place in Sea Point where you can turn it down a notch, slow down the palate’s hungry pursuit for the un-tastedand go on a luxurious connoisseur coffee tasting journey? Paired with hand-crafted chocolate confectionary, Coco Safar has come up with a winning recipe for an innovative tasting that will leave you craving for your next cup of speciality caffeine.
I’ve only ever seen or heard of Coco Safar on social media. It’s almost a trend; a lifestyle – the hot spot to be photographed in, to be seen at, to be Instagram’ed. I was always intrigued by the moody chocolate hues of its interior and by the all- day café experience it promises to deliver, alongside cups of couture coffee.
I received a generous invitation to experience the latest feather in their chef’s toque – Coco Safar’s coffee and chocolate pairing. Disclaimer – it’s so much more than this humble title can even begin to suggest, and will stand out in my mind as one of the best ways in Cape Town to deliberately while away a few hours.
Amilinda Wilkinson
Amilinda Wilkinson
The journey
We arrived at Coco Safar’s Capsule Emporium, welcomed by Café Gourmand, Lorna. She briefed us on our coffee journey itinerary for the afternoon, whilst we settled in at the bar and took in our surroundings. Having recently acquired my own coffee pod machine at home, I was keen to try out Coco Safar’s extensive range of beautifully packaged coffee pods. Sourcing coffee beans of only exceptional quality from across the world, it’s roasted right here in Sea Point at their roastery and packaged into Nespresso-compatible pods that are compostable. Every step of the process is transparent, accountable and eco-friendly – there’s nothing ordinary about these!
Lorna is a storyteller of note, and her enthusiasm is simply contagious. She embellished our tasting with little quizzes, anecdotes and challenges, keeping us fully engaged and submerged in excellent coffee for way longer than we should’ve.
The tasting
To elevate our tasting to extraordinary levels, Lorna arranged two different sets of confectionary treats for Tim and myself, so that we could share and double our delight as we travel through our destinations.
First, we paired the dark, moody Napoli with a very berry macaron and a hazelnut macaron. Then, for something a little lighter, we paired thedelicately floral Saint Tropez with a green tea bon bon and a coffee bon bon.
Our third coffee, and our absolute favourite with an aroma reminiscent of warm, melted chocolate, Havana, was paired with the pièce de resistance: a cocoa bean dark chocolate mousse and caramel treat for me and a mocha cheesecake for Tim.
We also snuck in a tasting of boldly fearless Manhattan; a smooth, handsome chap whose intense dark caramel aromas lingered welcomingly as we sat back for a pause.
And if that was not decadent enough, we ended our journey with Coco Safar’s two interpretations of rooibos, each with a lovely story woven through the flavours. But you’ll have to ask Lorna to tell them to you – the magic lies in a visit to Coco Safar.
Beyond the ordinary
I don’t want to give too much away about the tasting as this is something you need to experience for yourself. This is not your expected coffee tasting; instead, it’s a showcase of craftmanship, a story of how passion turned into dedication, a tale about a quest for quality and the journey beyond the ordinary.
The tasting must be booked in advance. WhatsApp on 082 055 5721 to book
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithamilinda
My Obsession Grape Cake with Deetlefs’ Stonecross Chenin Blanc 2020
When I find something I like, I tend to mildly obsess over it for a while. I think about it endlessly and return to it as often as I can, enjoying each circling with as much joyous abundance as the last. One of these lockdown obsessions has been Deetlefs’ Stonecross range of wines, specifically the Chenin Blanc. I first encountered Deetlefs’ wines last year during one of those crazy five-week alcohol-banned lockdown sales. As I take my duty seriously, I supported South African wines with reckless abandon, funded by my petrol money allowance I was saving now working from home. That was my first taste of their Stonecross Chenin Blanc, and I’ve been fixated on it since. The other thing I’ve been returning to more often than I should is mood-dependent iterations of my grape and polenta cake. So here I am, with another grape cake at your door, but this time I’m feeling generous, and decided to share the winning recipe. I’m calling it my Obsession Grape Cake, for obvious reasons.
But before I do – I found these FVC International black seedless grapes at Food Lover’s Market. They’re called “Candy Crunch” and taste like sun-warmed cotton candy sticks from the church bazaars of my childhood. Beautifully plump and glossy black, they’re the most perfect grape candies.
Amilinda Wilkinson
Amilinda Wilkinson
My Obsession Grape Cake
Serves: 8 – 10
Ingredients:
2 tbsp butter, melted and slightly cooled
½ cup + 2 tbsp flour
½ cup polenta
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
2 eggs
½ cup brown sugar
1 tsp lemon zest
½ tsp vanilla essence
¼ cup vegetable oil
6 tbsp amasi
2 tbsp honey
250 – 300gr grapes, preferably black or red. I left mine whole, but you can halve and seed yours if you want. I used the black seedless Candy Crunch ones.
Directions:
Pre-heat oven to 180C. Line / grease a rectangular oven dish (about 20 x 20 x 5cm).
Whisk together all the flour, polenta baking powder and salt in a bowl. Put aside.
Whisk eggs, sugar, lemon zest and vanilla in a larger bowl. Add oil and butter, whisk some more to blend.Whisk in the flour mixture. Add buttermilk. Stir in honey but do not over mix or fully incorporate all ingredients.
Pour into the oven dish. Toss half of the grapes with a bit more flour to coat. Scatter over the batter in the dish.Bake for about 15 minutes, until lightly golden and it’s starting to set. Remove from oven and scatter over remaining grapes. Bake for a further 20 – 25 minutes until golden brown.
Cool on a wire rack after cooling slightly in the pan first.
Best enjoyed warm with a glass or two of chilled Deetlefs Stonecross Chenin Blanc 2020. The gritty earthiness of the polenta breaks through the clean, crisp acidity of the wine and the slightly caramelised grapes enhance the rich, tropical notes of pineapple. Beautifully complex in the bottle, beautifully uncomplicated to drink. I’ll be right here if you’re looking for me, pouring over my Stonecross Chenin a little bit longer.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithamilinda
Amilinda Wilkinson
Celebrating the harvest with Deetlefs Estate Chenin Blanc 2017
When I bought my house, it wasn’t so much the extra space or the open-plan kitchen or the shady garden that filled me with “first-home-owner’s excitement”. It was the prospect of grapes. Hidden away, right at the back of the house where only the toughest creepers could root in the sandy soil, was an overgrown, grossly neglected grapevine. Darkened by the sun, its bark cracked and perished, it was only when I cut into a stray branch that I realised it was full of water, filled with life, even after years of being forgotten. Somehow, it had sent roots deep into the earth, waiting, patiently waiting for something great to happen. That day, almost four years ago, enveloped in a tangle of dead vines with drops of water clinging to the blades of my secateurs, I vowed that I would one day celebrate my own harvest from this forgotten stump.
Deetlefs Estate Chenin Blanc 2017
This year, I collected a generous armful of what I think is Crystal grapes from my vine. Now a shade-giving canopy of lush green leaves, my grapevine carries heavy under the burden of ripening bunches of fruit. I knew I couldn’t face another bottle of home-made grape jam, so I decided I’ll do something different. Something suitably celebratory.
When a bottle of Deetlefs Estate Chenin Blanc 2017 arrived at my doorstep recently, I instinctively knew how I would celebrate a long, hard year since the previous harvest – I would bake a cake, and drink wine; a small homage paid to my own grapes and to Deetlefs’.
Amilinda Wilkinson
Amilinda Wilkinson
Deetlefs Estate Chenin Blanc 2017
A Harvest Cake
In eating, as in drinking, I take great delight in a combination of different textures and flavours. The depth and complexity of this Chenin Blanc left me yearning for a recipe loaded with character, earthiness and of course, slightly tart, sun-ripened backyard grapes.
I decided on an adaptation of my polenta and olive oil cake. I plonked the grapes into the batter like little light-green glass marbles, letting them pop under the pressure of heat of the oven, keeping the cake beautifully moist inside as it bakes golden and gnarly on the outside.
It’s a simple recipe, with few ingredients, and very often a gorgeous wine like this one calls for less, rather than more. Gritty, yellow maize meal, a voluptuous amount of EVOO and as many grapes as I could fit, I slid the cake into the oven as I simultaneously opened the fridge to chill my Deetlefs Chenin.
An hour later, with my throat so parched I could hardly speak, I pulled my harvest cake from the oven. Some of the grapes on the surface burst during baking, leaving their caramelised skins behind, soaking the cake in their pre-wine juices.
Served with a chilled glass of Deetlefs Chenin Blanc and a final snowfall of icing sugar, we cut generous wedges of the still-warm cake as we cheers’ed to a harvest season that almost didn’t happen. The gorgeous fresh acidity at first sip made way for much deeper and more intense stone-fruit flavours, followed by notes of rich honey, which harmonised beautifully with the earthiness of the maize meal and that distinct pepperiness of olive oil, however much more muted when baked into a cake.
As I poured a second glass – slowly, and with intent – I couldn’t help saying a little thank-you to Dionysusfor saving not only my own grapevine, but also those of our country. Thank you also to Deetlefs, for making this celebratory moment just that little bit more special, with glasses of Chenin that tasted like the best kind of reward.
#capellilavita #savourlavita #savourwithamilinda
Amilinda Wilkinson
Monday Macaron
I find it slightly amusing that my first guest-post on Capelli La Vita would be about macarons. True to form, these little dainty rounds of indulgence make for the most fitting analogy to my very own hedonistic life, and how I choose to stuff it full of decadence. I’ve always had a particular affinity for a good quality macaron, and the search for “the one” is a life-long quest I’ve committed to with honour.
Moreish macaroons
Not to be confused with the coconut chewie called a “macaroon”, the macaron is typically sweet confection with two meringue shells sandwiched together with flavoured ganache, jam or buttercream. I’m inexplicably drawn to the texture of macarons; the smooth, slightly rounded top, perched on a characteristically ruffled crown.
It’s all in the bite; the way the almond shell crunches and give way under your teeth; the slight gooeyness in the hollow centre, and then. A creamy, soft and pillowy filling, oozing from all sides as the macaron dissolves into delectable crumbs. To me, eating a macaron is an almost hallow experience; a sweet moment that begs for all your senses to be involved in the sheer pleasure of dessert.
A savoury sweet?
Recently, the idea of a savoury macaron was put in front of my kitchen door. My first thoughts were ones of sacrilege; of dishonour toward this century-old Parisian treat. How can one fill a macaron with anything but flavoured buttercream or layers of ganache?! However outlandish it seemed, I sat with the idea for a bit, chewing it over, for macarons are a serious subject to me.
As I released my mind to wander into this new realm of sweet and salty macaron possibilities, I began to warm ever so slightly to the idea. I started to build imaginary layers of piquant textures in my mind’s eye and enveloped them with macaron shells. I thought how it would taste to pair spicy with sweet. It was possible, I concluded, but only on one condition.
With wine
Only one condition would allow me to explore this almost-umami experience any further. And that was with the addition of wine.
Editor’s Note: I asked the best baker this side of the mountain to whip me up a batch of unflavoured macaron shells for this little project. Barbara from The Icing Project is my number one speed-dial for all delicious baked goods and sweets, and I could not even try to make macarons as perfect as hers!
Mac & cheese with Rosé
Butter chicken with Chardonnay
Smoked chicken breast, curried carrot puree
One of the main reasons that Chardonnay is at the top of my favourite wine cultivars, is because of its fearlessness. Bold enough to hold against fragrant spice, yet mellow enough to enjoy with sunset.
Butter chicken is the perfect example of a Chardonnay-loving dish. With the buttery texture already captured in the macaron shells, I kept this pairing simple with only a few slivers of smoked chickenand a Malay-spiced curried carrot relish. The Chardonnay lapped up the warm aromas of the masala and presented crisply against the slight sweet of the shell. A bite of parsley to cut through the lushness of the pairing, and I could bite quite a few more of these in one sitting.
Recommended wine: Kloovenburg Unwooded Chardonnay 2020
Mexican with Merlot
Crispy mince, salsa verde, sundried tomato
Another great food and wine combination for me, is a robust red with Mexican inspired dishes. Nachos, tacos, enchiladas, steeped in tangy tomato goodness and fresh herbs, I tried to capture some of that flavour profile in the next macaron.
I fried lean beef mince until it became golden, gnarly and crispy, and whipped up a quick batch of salsa verde with parsley and basil fresh from my garden. A tiny morsel of oily sundried tomatoes, and it’s a Mexican feast waiting to happen.
Recommended wine: Middelvlei Rooster Merlot 2018
Bold beets with Shiraz
Beetroot and apple puree, feta, beetroot crisp
I’m mad about beetroot. I love the earthy, natural goodness of slow-roasted beets, and simply had to incorporate this brightly coloured bulb into my macaron making. I puréedthe honeyed roasted beets with crisp green apple, with a pinch of black pepper. A crumble of soft feta and served on a salted beetroot crisp, this macaron gave me that sweet-salty flavour I always crave. The texture of the gooey macaron shell paired with the crisp was a delicious moment, especially when followed with the throat-coating peppery moodiness of a deep Shiraz.
Recommended wine: Zandvliet Shiraz 2017
In conclusion
I must admit, I thoroughly enjoyed this macaron making project. I was reminded of the sheer joy of experiencing unexpected flavours, textures and aromas on the palate, and how exciting something as humble as a little macaron can be. I most certainly think there is a space (or two!) for savoury macarons in my plate.
I’ve always viewed food and wine pairings as something incredibly personal – even more reason to play around with combinations until you find something your palate appreciates and that makes you close your eyes in that ultimate indulgent moment of enjoyment. Food is supposed to be fun, and wine, too. Next time I’m serving Chenin for sundowners, I might just quickly go whip up a batch of squid-ink and smoked haddock macarons – who knows where this sweet-savoury creativity will lead me next?